Skip to main content

Make it a Double-breasted October. . .

Recently arrived from An Affordable Wardorobe.  Too bad, school is over until late August, and it probably won't be cool enough to wear this suit until mid- or late October once the heat of the summer and early fall have left us.  This photo comes from the AAW blog.

Here's a post for the real menswear nerds out there.  Two or three days ago, a new item was deposited on our front doorstep.  This Ermenegildo Zegna double-breasted suit in super-soft wool flannel, purchased from Giuseppe Timore at An Affordable Wardrobe, and to which I treated myself when an outstanding payment for a recent translation arrived.  It was still a steal.  Here's the description, taken directly from Mr. Timore's blog:

"Double breasted suit in grey glen check flannel, (black and soft off white check). 40L.  Broad European shoulders, draped chest, 6x4 double breasted front, four button cuffs, no vent, fully lined. Trousers [feature] double reverse pleats, brace buttons, soft cut. 100% wool, made in Switzerland by Ermenegildo Zegna."

I took the liberty of removing the dimensions of the items described above, but suffice to say the coat already fits me like I was born in it unlike the recently purchased J. Press tweed 3-piece, which was far too tight and had to be returned to the seller.  With this double-breasted number, even the sleeve length is already good (I tried everything on with a dress shirt).  The inseam might be just a hair long, but I'll try the pants on once more with some lace-up dress shoes before making up my mind about taking them to my tailor, Mrs. V., or the other tailors I use occasionally, Mr. and Mrs. D.    

Best of all, the suit also features a subdued Glen Check pattern, my personal favorite.  Just enough variation to provide visual interest and avoid looking like every other guy out there in a suit, the few who even bother anymore.  You know.  The typical solid navy, charcoal, or black suit.  These have their place, of course, but some slight variation would be nice once in a while especially if a man has more than one suit hanging in his closet.  I prefer to shake things up a bit myself.  

It helps that my father demonstrated that subtle plaids, houndstooth,  seersucker, pin cords, and the like could work extremely well for suits when I was a boy at home.  And keep in mind that he was a muckety-muck in the fairly conservative financial sector on Wall Street.  Hence my own attitude about being a bit adventurous when it comes to patterns.  With care, they can look extremely good, but you've got to wear such items with confidence.  As I've mentioned elsewhere here at The Average Guy''s Guide to Classic Style, that's the case with any sort of classic male attire.  (Self-) Confidence is the key.

In any case, it's entirely possible that this particular suit might require no alterations whatsoever before I can wear it.  Just dry-cleaning and then waiting around for the autumn semester to begin, and the long, hot American Midwestern summer to wane into Fall.  If I can pin down my overly-scheduled, department chair wife long enough to snap a photograph or two of yours truly when the suit gets its first wearing, I'll share a picture here. . .  in about six months or so.  Sigh.  Life is cruel sometimes. 

-- Heinz-Ulrich.

Comments

  1. I have been wearing double breasted suits ever since I started work and I think they are difficult to beat. I would however always recommend 6 front buttons, not 4 and double vents at the back. Somehow the lapels do not seem right with 4 buttons especially if you keep the bottom right hand side one free. I have a lovely summer Prince of Wales check with a pale blue line. The rest I'm afraid are boring conservative charcoals and pin strips for work. I do have however what friends call my Al Capone DB pinstripe. Makes me look like a 80's banker.

    regards,
    Guy

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you for our comment, Guy. Agreed! The double-breasted look is a great one, something I never realized as a younger guy. Maybe I should have been a banker (or a 1930s movie gangster) instead of an academic though?

    Best Regards,

    Heinz-Ulrich von B.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

All opinions are welcome here. Even those that differ from mine. But let's keep it clean and civil, please.

-- Heinz-Ulrich

Popular Posts

J. Press Goodness. . .

    F resh out of the UPS box, three examples of J. Press goodness on a Friday morning.  These shirts are replacements for three recently worn-through, more than 20-year old OCBDs from Land's End (two) and L.L. Bean (one).  They were purchased shortly after I took my first teaching position at a now defunct local college outside of Minneapolis, immediately following graduate school, as the fall semester kicked off in September 2003. While some professional gear hung in my closet already, a few additional items were needed at that point to round out the weekly rotation. Said shirts all finally fell prey to small rips showing up in the now very thin, but incredibly comfortable, fabric within six weeks of each other this winter and early spring.  So, time for a few replacements.  The old friends will find new life as summertime lawncare shirts.  Of the three new items above, my favorite shirt is on the right, but one cannot go wrong with a light blue OCBD either, so we're in good

Time for the Ol' Switcheroo?

  W ell, here we are approaching mid-April.  And it might just be about time to swap the cool and cold weather attire for warmer weather gear this coming weekend.  Mid-70s Fahrenheit yesterday, and low 70s today.  Cooler after that later in the week, but I can probably stow the heavier wool items and cords in the cedar closet and safely bring out the warm weather suits, odd jackets, and pants until the fall. Still time of one last hurrah today however.  Cooler enough this morning for a tan pair of cords paired with that recently arrived J. Press jacket.  The latter is light enough, although it is wool, that I might just keep it handy since we can certainly have chilly days in May and June. While classes end on the April 19th this year, I'll still be on campus occasionally into June, so it's not exactly time for khaki shorts, Madras, seersucker and short-sleeved polo shirts just yet.  There's also  conference coming up in New Orleans at the start of June, so still some oppor

Job Talk #3. . .

  C andidate #3 is, for my money, the person for the job.  Considerable experience, broad perspective, well-connected throughout the college and university due to an array of collaborative pursuits of one kind or another, coherent and detailed vision laid out for the next three years and beyond.  Yes.  I am not on the committee that makes the recommendation to the dean, who will make the final decision and send the letter, but, were it up to yours truly, this is the guy.  And he wore an actual suit (mid-gray), dress shoes, white shirt, and necktie as an added plus.  20 years or so my junior, but someone gets it. -- Heinz-Ulrich